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I first tasted Borscht nearly 20 years ago. It was made during a celebration of Russian food as part of an International week program. At first I took only a small amount of the soup, certain that, since I’d never liked beets up to that point, this wasn’t going to be a meal that I would be excited about. It was served with a spoonful of smetana (a version of sour cream found in Central and Eastern Europe, more like creme fraiche than the sour cream I’d eaten in the US) and a few slices of rye bread. I ended up going back for a second bowl, and then a third, delighted by the sweet, earthy flavor of the beets balanced with the savory beef broth and offset by the addition of either vinegar or lemon – I wasn’t sure which.
Fast forward 15 year later, and I found myself living in Finland, newly married, with a husband who’s favorite soup was Borscht, and decided I would learn how to make it well. No surprise, really, that there are Borscht lovers in Finland: the soup originates from Ukraine, and can be found in various forms and mildly differing recipes in Russia, Estonia, Hungary, Ukraine, Poland and Belarus, to name a few. The name and ingredients vary slightly from region to region, but in most places, the unifying factor is that beets are the main ingredient, usually with the addition of tomato paste, and nearly always made with beef or pork broth. Vegetarian version are good too, as long as mushrooms are used to add the much-needed umami that gives this soup its addictive qualities.
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There is no better time to eat Borscht than during the Winter months. Beetroot is in ample supply, and something about the cold dark days make a flavorful soup like this one a welcome sight on the table. I nearly always serve it with rye bread or archipelago bread, and typically not with smetana. If possible, I use beef broth, and pre-cooked beef, added during the last 10 minutes or so of cooking. A good day to make Borscht is on the day after you’ve cooked a beef roast or braised oxtail. Save some of the beef for this soup.
If starting with raw beef, you can also cook the diced beef briefly in the bottom of the soup until it is nicely browned on all sides, and then remove it and set aside while you brown the onions. If you do this, add the beef back in when you add the liquid so it has time to cook and tenderize. You can also make Borscht without beef, if preferred. The recipe below includes it; to cook without it, make the recipe as is, but omit the beef.
Because it’s main ingredient is beetroot, this soup is bursting with nutrients as well. Beetroot is a good source of folic acid, potassium, magnesium and iron, along with Vitamins A, B6 and C.
This version is quicker than other Borscht recipes I’ve made as it doesn’t call for roasting the beets first. Instead, you grate the raw beets and add them directly to the pot where the deep red from their juices provides the soup with it’s stunning color. If there are leftovers, this soup freezes really well.
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Borscht
2 tablespoons rapeseed oil or other cooking oil
1 onion, diced
1 carrot, grated
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 large raw beets, grated
2 medium sized potatoes, peeled and diced
1 cups / 2.5 dl cabbage, sliced thinly
6 cups / 1.5 liters beef broth (can substitute vegetable broth; if so, add 1/2 ounce dried porcini)
1 cup / 250 ml crushed canned tomatoes
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 cup / 2.5 dl cooked beef, cut into small pieces (you can leave this out, if preferred)
1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
1/4 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
1/4 cup / 1/2 dl lemon juice or red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon brown sugar
Heat the oil in a 3-quart/3-liter pot over medium heat; add onion and carrot. Cook for 5 minutes until the onion is soft and translucent. Add the garlic, beets, potatoes. Cook for another 2 minutes, stirring to combine. Add the beef broth all at once. Add the tomatoes and tomato paste. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover, and allow the soup to cook for 10 minutes. Add the cabbage and beef and continue cooking for an additional 10 minutes. Remove the soup from heat and add the salt, pepper, vinegar and sugar. Taste, and if necessary, adjust the seasonings; depending on the saltiness of your beef broth, you may need more salt. You want there to be a sweet-sour balance in the soup.
Ladle into bowls and serve with rye bread or archipelago bread and soft butter.
Serves 4-6.